Saturday, September 20, 2008

Friday Night Fever!

The meal we cooked last night for our guests was the best dinner we have cooked yet! We collaborated on a savory meat sauce that our Kenyan rafikis thought was a beef stew! Even with an interactive explanation of how to eat the dinner we prepared they still put on the pasta sauce and spinach dressing for the pasta and rice on the side of their plates. A true cross cultural moment! In fact the entire experience of hosting Kenyan youth to dinner and a night out was full of unexpected cross cultural mishaps. All bets are off when youth from a low context culture host youth from a high context culture and community - exspecially when your guests are staying over and your electricity is out for 13 hours, your refridgerator defrosts all over your kitchen floor and there is a water ration in your neighborhood of Nairobi. It was the first morning in the apartment our feelings of frustration, anxiety and homesickness showed.
Today we walked to Westlands, paid for our Masai Mara Safari next weekend and bought groceries. We spent the afternoon on our balcony drinking Kenyan Chai and reading. We are very excited to eat dinner tonight at our friend Iddi's house and to go out to listen to some live music to rest before Sunday.
Update, the Flickr link below is working now! Also, please leave comments, concerns, questions and suggestions about posts and pictures so I can make the blog as interactive and entertaining as possible for all of you!
The photo is the view from the training room our contestants from Mr. and Miss Kibera use to learn cat walk, etiquette, dancing and public speaking.

Friday, September 19, 2008

Mr. and Miss Kibera


It is a sunny breezy Friday morning in Nairobi. My roommates and I have spent our morning resting and watching Aljezeera. At 1 pm we walk 15 min to Westlands to grab some milk from Uchumi our neighborhood grocery store to have we our tea during class. It is customary in Kenya to take chai (tea) at noon and 4 pm. It is a treat we are quickly becoming accustomed too! We have our class on the Development Culture of Kenya at 2 pm and tonight we are hosting some friends from Kibera for dinner. We are going shopping after our 3 hour class for ingredients for Mexican dishes to serve our guests. Betty, Sylvia, Irosh and Daniel live in the informal settlement and they are very excited to eat international food. All four of them are well known performers/dancers in Kibera and they are really excited to take us out tonight to a neighborhood club to show us how to really get down!
This weekend we are going to go shopping at a Masai market, maybe play soccer with some kids at my roommate Cait's internship site Shangilia and start....homework!
The picture today was taken yesterday, my second day in Kibera, at my externship site ISSA. OJ, my director, and I are standing in the entry of our cement/tin building in the village of Mashimoni, Kibera. I spent my morning there with another director Tony reviewing some of ISSA's literature. We decided I am going to write a grant proposal for their Eagle Project. The Eagle Project is a broad plan to start a ICT Center at ISSA for the Kiberan community. It will be fun to watch this project take shape because an ICT center could truly revoluntionize the economy of Kibera. Later on in the afternoon Tony and I met with an Ph.D candidate anthropologist from Oxford who has agreed to help Tony analyze a survey he completed about the slum upgrading project near the Soweto village. It was fun to watch her manipulate the data to see all the angles of the reactions the villagers have towards the intiative. Back in Kibera I watched another cat walk training and attended our Thursday evening meetings at ISSA. ISSA so far has been a great way to experience many levels of development at the grassroots level.
Tatuonana! (I will be seeing you!)

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

ISSA Day 1: Kibera Tour


For those of you who have seen "The Constant Gardener" you can visualize the setting for my first day at ISSA. I dropped at the DO's stage (that short for I was dropped off at the District Officer's matatu stop on the number 32 route) around ten am. I was the only "mzungu" in the village of Mashimoni of Kibera on that morning and the locals knew it because they stared and greeted me with choruses of "How are you?". I walked into my organizations new headquaters. They recently moved into a two room cement building that was previously a health clinic. To enter the building you cross a rough cement bridge over a drainage/drinking water/sewage trench filled with garbage. A "poshi" mill crunches and grinds grain for "ugali" next door and a small one room market across the dirt pathway sells sodas and snacks.
The first hour at ISSA was an intro meeting with the three directors; OJ, Tony and Andrew, and the Sports and Culture Program Officer Daniel who we call "Sambasa". Sambasa is a comedian, artist and actor. "Sambasa" means "to spread". It fits Daniel well because his talents have carried him all throughout the community. After my introductory meeting, the directors had a meeting in a different informal community called Mathare so Daniel and I spent the day touring Kibera.
We walked to a soccer field, the Nairobi Dam, and we stopped at a scenic view between the informal settlement and high rise condominiums across the Nairobi River. We ate lunch with Betty and Sylvia, two of AU Abroad's Cultural Orientation leaders at their house. Later we walked to Lindi (Lindi is another village of the informal settlement) to visit Daniel's aunt who he considers his mother in Kibera. After playing with his 6 month old cousin and Auntie we went back to the office to get ready for our training in the early afternoon.
In the context of the ISSA Beauty Pageant, "a training" really means a dance party with thirty 23 year olds at a local schoolroom. We went to help the other two trainers facilitate a cat walk training session for our contestants. The contestants cat walked to pop hits from the early 2000s and I was the DJ! Couldn't have asked for anything more!
I was escorted to a different matatu stage on route 40 to head home to KiSwahili class at 7:00 pm in Westlands. I grabbed two pizzas at Pizza Inn..two for one pizzas on Tuesdays and ran to class!
(These boys are not from Kibera, they are street kids I met from South B who are currently enrolled in an arts program to restore their sense of humanity and health through fine arts, drumming and dance.)

Monday, September 15, 2008

Free at last; internet is free at last!


Tonight marks the first night of free internet in our apartment! I can finally post my very own pictures of Nairobi! You will able to see Kenya through my eyes! I hope you will continue to enjoy the safari (safari in kiSwahili means journey). My roommate Denise and I are fee

ding Laura at the AFEW Giraffe Center outside of Nairobi.

ISSA

Tomorrow I start my externship with ISSA the Initiative for Sports and Social Arts in Kibera. Kibera is an informal settlement (we use informal settlement instead of slum) inside of Nairobi proper. Almost 75% of the population of Nairobi lives in an informal settlement like Kibera. The informal settlements use about 4% of the land in Nairobi. So, 75% of the people live in tin, wood or mud houses on 4% of the land. It is crowded to say the least. ISSA works primarily with youth (I must define youth in the African context; you are considered a youth until you are over 30 yrs of age or you have a family of your own). ISSA is gearing up for their Mr. and Ms. Kibera Pageant. The contestants are of all ages and will chosen to finalist based on special talents and public speaking. The finalists will be trained by ISSA staff and volunteers in reading, writing, public speaking, cat walking, HIV/AIDS and other community concern. Who ever wins Mr. or Ms. Kibera become spokespersons for the theme of the contest Beauty and Care. The community of Kibera treats them like superstars and they are invited all over the city to speak about the day to day issues the community of Kibera and other informal settlements are confronted with. Tomorrow I will begin working with the program officers and other staff on the pageant but eventually I will hopefully be helping them get certified through a strategic management program so that they can start applying for grants for more funding. ISSA is a relatively new NGO and is looking for lots of institutional support and guidance. I am very excited to be involved in grassroots development.
Aside from school and externships, last night we had a bbq at our country director's office. We ate lots of nyama choma (bbq meat), chapati and kachumbari on blankets on the grass! All Kenyan staples. We learned traditional dance and listened to talking drums! I will try and upload pictures and videos of the party to my flickr account, (a link on the bottom of the blog) asap.